Just once in your life, cook a brisket, over smoky charcoal heat, on the grill. Do it for the solemn pride of having done so, and for the rime of authority it will lend to your future haughty pronouncements on the quality of others’ briskets. Do it because brisket—a massive cut of tough working muscle from the chest of a cow—is one of the pillars of barbecue mastery, and a good challenge to take on for yourself. Do it because it will make enough delicious, smoky meat for everyone you know to enjoy some. Do it because I am telling you to do it. And, do it just once, because it will take most of the rest of your life to finish. My God it takes fucking forever.
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